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RMI Prairie Step 10 - Tender Plumbing |
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PhilC ![]() Admin Group ![]() ![]() Joined: Nov 03 2008 Location: Torrance Status: Offline Points: 129 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: Feb 24 2010 at 6:08pm |
It has taken a while but the plumbing of the tender is finally complete. Plumbing included fuel lines, low pressure water lines, injector water lines, high pressure water lines, high pressure electric pump, air lines and also the addition of some cool blue neon lighting.
Here are some quick photos of the main valve section. Each line has a shutoff valve at the source.
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() It came out pretty nice and I learned how to bend tubing with some controlled results. Time for some finishing touches on the tender base and then off to powder coat for the tender body. Next task will be the electrical wiring of the tender.
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I used to be a rocket scientist, now I am just a space cadet.
------------------------------ You only need three tools in life - WD-40, Duct Tape, and a Hammer. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape. If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem. |
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Steve C ![]() Groupie ![]() ![]() Mr Steam Joined: May 16 2009 Status: Offline Points: 96 |
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Looking good Phil.
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RioGrande464 ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: May 31 2009 Location: Torrance Status: Offline Points: 39 |
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those electrical lines better be powered by a dynamo!
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PhilC ![]() Admin Group ![]() ![]() Joined: Nov 03 2008 Location: Torrance Status: Offline Points: 129 |
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Well it has been over a year and a half since I have done anything on this project. So time to get going once again.
It looks like I will have to re-do a lot of the plumbing or at least extend it. I have decided to add 18 inches to the length of the tender so that it accommodates my feet. I had tried running Jim Berryman's Sweet Creek and found that it was very uncomfortable to run for any length of time due to the fact that my legs were scrunched up against the boiler backhead. I figured that this is the time to make the locomotive fit me while it is under construction so that I could at least fit into it comfortably. The frame will be extended 18 inches along with all the plumbing below. The bolster will be moved forward 18 inches so that the turning geometry will not change. A hinged floor pan will be built so that I have access to the extra 18 inches below my feet to get access to pumps and filters that will be located in the new space. Swing out doors will also be fabricated and hinged off the vertical edge of the tender body. This will allow me to enter the tender without having to crawl over the side of it. The doors will be held in place with either a magnetic latch or a locating pin through the floor pan. I am also planning on adding another 8 inches to the cab on the locomotive so that I have room for an air brake stand and additional leg room. I will extend the throttle if required so it is comfortable. To get started I will need to purchase the correct size of steel channel and rectangular tubing so that I can weld the additional pieces onto the front of the tender. Then extend all of the plumbing to the front plate of the tender chassis. Adding another 18 inches means more room for neon! I just happen to have 2 short pieces to add to the other neon that is under there. It will be fun to watch the glow off in the distance when it is running. You all laugh now, but wait until you see it in action. ![]() This weekends project will be to dig it out from under all the stuff in my storage container and get it ready to weld. Fun stuff! Check back for more progress. Phil |
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I used to be a rocket scientist, now I am just a space cadet.
------------------------------ You only need three tools in life - WD-40, Duct Tape, and a Hammer. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape. If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem. |
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